In the heart of the mountain range in the Loire department, in the village of Sauvain, lies the farm of Marie-Agnès Plagne, the only farmhouse producer of the famous Fourme de Montbrison cheese. For three decades, together with her husband René, she has carried on a family tradition that spans seven generations. This unique cheese is made following a recipe passed down from her father-in-law, who himself inherited it from his mother, in the old mountain huts known as “jasères.”
CHEESE MADE AT OVER 1,000 METERS OF ALTITUDE
The cows on the Plagne family farm graze for most of the year at over 1,000 meters above sea level, on vast mountain pastures. During the colder months, they are housed in a barn in the small hamlet of Goutte Claire. These animals are raised using traditional methods, fed with natural grains, and monitored with veterinary care that adheres to the principles of healthy farming. The farm currently has around seventy cows, mainly of the Montbéliarde, Tarine, and Holstein breeds, along with a few Fleckvieh cows from Switzerland.
“Every stage of production is done by hand and requires patience. Curdling, heating, pasteurization, draining, molding, salting, aging – all these steps must be carried out precisely to give the cheese its distinctive texture and taste,” explains Marie-Agnès Plagne.
FOURME DE MONTBRISON: TRADITION AND AUTHENTICITY
Fourme de Montbrison is a cheese with a protected designation of origin (AOP), produced exclusively in the Monts du Forez region, which spans the Loire and Puy-de-Dôme departments. This semi-hard blue cheese is known for its orange rind and dry yet creamy texture. Its interior is streaked with blue-green mold, giving it a unique aroma that is milder than the famous Roquefort, yet still rich and complex.
The production of this cheese follows strict standards. Only cow’s milk is used, and the aging process lasts at least 28 days. This slow maturation process and the specific mixing and molding techniques contribute to its distinctive flavor, which has light nutty notes with a subtle hint of woodland aromas.
GROWTH OF PRODUCTION AND THE FUTURE OF FARMHOUSE CHEESEMAKING
According to the Fourme de Montbrison cheese producers’ union, production reached 638 tons in 2023, an increase from the previous year. Although most of the production is carried out in dairies, the Plagne farm remains the only one that produces this cheese in the traditional farmhouse way.
“Some people think we’re eccentric because we still insist on using old production methods. But we know what we’re doing – every step in the process has its purpose and contributes to the cheese’s outstanding quality,” says Marie-Agnès with a smile.
In addition to being sold at local markets and specialty shops, Fourme de Montbrison from this farm is gaining popularity among consumers in Lyon and other major French cities, where it is valued as a delicacy.
Every year in October, the town of Montbrison hosts a festival dedicated to this cheese, bringing together producers, enthusiasts, and culinary experts to celebrate this gastronomic heritage.
Fourme de Montbrison is more than just a cheese – it is a part of the history and identity of this mountainous region.
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